ok, so i am so glad to be back in a smoke-free environment....i plan to wash all of my clothing first thing,,just to get the smell out...i wonder if suitcases can be drycleaned....cigarettes are pervasive in spain, even in stores....the museums ban them,but the museum cafes and bathrooms then smell all the more smokey because the nicotine addicts must feel compelled to smoke extras to prepare for the return to the smokefree galleries.....i found wafting cigarette smoke quite disturbing in restaurants......which do not understand the concept of smoke-free sections.....so glad to be home....