ok, so we are back from our first excursion, and i am blurry-eyed exhausted.........the drive back from memphis took about 7.5 hours, when one factors in the road construction slowdowns, the rain, the pit stops.........we saw a part of mammoth caves that i had never seen before.....one that was accessible only from 500 nearly vertical steps designed by an engineer specializing in building submarines....i don't like heights. so this required a bit of lamaze breathing..........the tour guide/ranger was perky and knowledgable......the formations(drapery, stalactites, stalagmites) were really neat.......the best tour memory?.....the woman who clutched her cell phone during the tour.......like she had to be ready to take a call...in a cave 250 below the surface of the earth......can you hear me now?............then on to memphis........graceland (this morning) was already crowded ay 9:30 am.....the price of admission includes an audio tour, so they are able to crowd many more people through the house quickly.......i could not get over the notion that my entrance fee pays for lisa marie's lifestyle, including her bizarre marriages and singing career.........anyway, graceland was a funky diversion, especially the jungle room.......the best memory?.......the large group of people from ohio wearing matching t-shirts......